Thursday, May 22, 2008

First two rides in Italy

The rides at Hotel Dory are organized into weekly programs, with everyone being offered five group rides over six days. The riders are divided into four groups by experience and ability. Not knowing what to expect, we decided to start with the slowest of the four, the "Borghe e Castelli" (Villages and Castles) group. This turned out to be a good decision since, unbeknownst to us, this was also the week of two major Italian bike races: (1)the Giro D'Italia and (2) the smaller Nove Colli. A number of people at the hotel were actually racing in the Nove Colli, so we were severely outclassed, cycle-wise. Nevertheless, everyone was very nice, and it was nice to meet so many people from all over the world.

Having biked around Charlotte and the surrounding rolling hills, we thought we were ready for the climbing we would encounter. But the terrain around Riccione is significantly different than Charlotte. The area near the coast is mostly completely flat, but if one rides inland for 12 miles or so in any direction, mountains are encountered. All of the rides we went on were about 40 miles long and involved climbing at least one, and usually more than one, mountain at least 1000 feet high. The climbs take place over distances of 6 miles or so, so that the average grade is around 3 or 4%. We found the climbs to be more than adequately challenging, the views breathtaking, and the descents exhilirating. The other three groups (Cappochino, Cappochino plus, and Limonchino) rode longer distances (60-80 miles) and climbed more and taller mountains, not for us, not this time anyway.

On Sunday, we rode the "Strada Panoramica" route with our guide Edy, two women from Germany (Gudrun and Heiki), and a man and woman from Sweden (Ivan and ???). Between the two climbs (1000 feet and 500 feet), we enjoyed a cappochino at a seaside cafe in Pesaro.

On Monday, the group changed a little bit, a recurring theme. The Swedes moved up to one of the other groups, and were replaced by John from Australia. The route was entitled "Falciano-Mulazzano-Montescudo-Vecciano". After the first climb (about 1000 feet), we stopped for cappuchino, another recurring theme, in the village of Ospidaletto. After another 1000 foot climb and a very hairy (for me) descent with some 18% grade and some Flintstone braking, we stopped again for a well-stocked barbecue at Hotel Dory's farmhouse in Vecciano.

Even though the climbs were challenging for us, I cannot stress how much we enjoyed and appreciated the services at the Hotel Dory. The food was constantly fabulous, with extensive breakfast and lunch, and full multi-course dinners every night. A bike mechanic was on duty every day with expert advise and whatever tools were required to do whatever needed to be done. Bike clothing was laundered every afternoon and returned in the mid-evening, well in time for the next ride. The promenade of Riccione and the Mediteranean beach were both a few steps away from the front door. Loaner "townie" bikes and motorscooters were available for running errands around town. There are many other services, too numerous to name them all: jacuzzi, ping pong, swimmming pools, workout room, aromatherapy, massage, etc etc. So even though we were sometimes physically spent from riding and climbing, we were always extremely comfortable, if that makes any sense.

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